[Restaurant Review
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Share a Steak With the Rat Pack
Butcher and Singer’s interior is both large enough to hold a small circus and opulent enough to host a session of Congress without losing an ounce of grandeur. Most impressive however, is its ability to capture the timeless elegance of Frank Sinatra and the incorrigible spirit of Sammy Davis., Jr. in a single room. Both personalities inescapably linger in your mind while you dine at this Stephen Starr establishment, where the booths are plush and the drinks are stiff.
Though it successfully channeled the Rat Pack era, Butcher and Singer steered clear of cliché by avoiding some of the more gaudy accoutrements of the period. The space, which opened in October of 2008, boasts ceilings high enough that I almost missed the intricate wooden inlays and bold lines that danced across the top of the room. In fact, a quarter of my meal was spent gazing skyward in order to appreciate the craftsmanship evident in every inch of the room. I was also struck by the dramatic columns that peppered the floor. Dark wooden panels camouflaged their massive girth and added a regal touch to an already majestic space.
The restaurant’s lighting is a work of art unto itself. Hitting the ideal pitch between overly dim and glaringly bright, the lighting scheme treated diners to a soothing glow that illuminated rather than spotlighted. Crowning the top of the columns were strategically placed bulbs that diffused the light upwards creating a soft halo effect. Adding to the sense of ease and luxuriance were the restaurant’s furnishings. Not a corner remained un-upholstered, between the padded chairs, cushy crescent shaped booths and soft carpeting. These grandiose furnishings also had the extra benefit of cutting down noise to virtually zero, as the yards of fabric absorbed nearby conversations. Between the acoustics, lighting and furnishings, everything in Butcher and Singer was designed with patrons’ comfort in mind.
As one of Philadelphia’s most high profile restaurateurs, Stephen Starr has spanned a variety of cuisines and leapfrogged across the globe by offering Asian, Cuban and creative American fare. Butcher and Singer, his foray into traditional steakhouse culture, is more than just another notch on his already accomplished belt. Instead, Butcher and Singer represents a departure of sorts for a restaurateur who has made the Philadelphia food scene his own personal playground. The addition of this restaurant to his culinary empire stands in sharp contrast to other more modernized establishments that merely capitalize on current trends.
Butcher and Singer is a timeless and elegant response to the unfortunate amount of eateries that don’t hold impeccable customer service and high quality ingredients in the highest esteem. As a result, Butcher and Singer aspires to deliver a world class experience to every diner.
On the night of our visit, the service appeared to be a finely tuned orchestra of attentive wait staff, all working harmoniously despite the frenetic pace of the kitchen. Our server was delightfully upbeat and her personality augmented the dining experience. She was knowledgeable and quick to offer suggestions or advice regarding various menu items. As a result, our meal consisted of dishes that were well paired and her guidance ensured that we didn’t over-order. We enjoyed top notch treatment at every turn and left feeling truly pampered.
Butcher and Singer proudly boasts specialty cocktails that complement each element of the steakhouse, from ambiance to philosophy to décor. The restaurant’s drink menu is extensive, and as I was easily getting swept up in the mid-century atmosphere, I ordered an Old Fashioned to go with my meal. The cocktail, consisting of whiskey, sugar, bitters and club soda, arrived swiftly. I relished the expertly mixed interplay between tart and sweet while appreciating its complexity throughout my first few courses.
Indicative of Butcher and Singer’s commitment to full flavor at every turn, the traditionally overlooked bread course was actually an opportunity to savor the hearty taste that comes with baking only the finest ingredients. With its rustic texture and velvety center, the bread was truly an appetizing start to the evening.
I was continually reminded that pacing is key when dining at Butcher and Singer, where the portions are always generous. The seafood platter was a fantastically indulgent exercise in restraint for crab lovers. A myriad of shellfish lined the dish while the center was filled with jumbo lump crab meat waiting to be savored. We sampled the Oyster Shooters whose tomato kick and tequila punch ensured that the lighting wouldn’t lull us into complacency.
Next, the Curried Shrimp Salad was a delectable foray into more subtle spices that struck notes of sweet and savory. We tasted the two varieties of oysters adorning the platter, one hailing from Prince Edward Island and the other from Skookum, Washington. While the former had a delightfully briny tinge, the Skookum oysters were a wonderful counterpoint, exhibiting a mild, supple flavor.
My favorite element of the seafood platter was the Alaskan King Crab Leg. The leg was particularly thick and succulent, so divvying it up between the two of us required a King Solomon-like effort. In addition, there was a liberal portion of shrimp cocktail waiting for anyone who still had room left. The shrimp succeeded in putting an exclamation point on an already dazzling appetizer course.
Another well-executed seafood dish came in the form of the Tuna Sashimi. This dish allowed the chef’s originality to shine with its rich bed of Tzatziki sauce nestled beneath the fish. A flush, vibrant crimson, the tuna’s quality was clearly top notch and the coupling of this Japanese favorite with a traditionally Greek condiment was a delicious surprise.
The salad course offered a variety of enticing options, but the classic Wedge Salad emerged as a menu standout. As a slight twist on this typical dish, Butcher and Singer topped their iceberg lettuce with a Russian dressing. I was enamored with the dressing’s richness especially when paired with the dishes firm bits of bacon and hunks of blue cheese.
Our first entrée, the Colorado Lamb Chops, proved to be juicy and delicate with flavor packed into every bite. The dish was portioned with plenty of tender meat to enjoy. The sweetness of the lamb’s flesh was best served by a medium rare preparation and I was grateful to our ever-helpful waitress for yet another helpful suggestion.
The main event, as can be expected at this rarefied steakhouse, was the beef dish and after much deliberation we ordered the Delmonico Steak. The rib eye meat was juicy beyond belief and arrived with just a tinge of pink at the center. The Delmonico Steak was served unencumbered by excessive garnishes and dominated our palettes for the rest of the evening. The portions were generous and sent us home with a bag full of fantastic leftovers.
The side dishes we chose to accompany our entrees resided on two ends of the steakhouse cuisine spectrum. First, the Creamed Spinach was a classic choice and did not disappoint. The consistency avoided soupiness or any bitter aftertastes and added a luscious dimension to our entree. We ordered the second side dish, Stuffed Hash Browns, at the urging of our waitress. Her knowing smile led us to believe it would be a tasty addition to our meal and she did not lead us astray. Butcher and Singer’ s Stuffed Hash Browns are unlike any other potato-based dish I’ve encountered inside or outside a steakhouse. Great care is taken with each step of preparation and the effort is evident at first bite. The potato was shredded and then filled with sour cream and potato chunks. After baking until golden in color, the Stuffed Hash Browns arrived as an oversize patty of gently browned potato with a rich supple filling. This was a must-order dish.
There was no better accompaniment to the crisp fall weather than the warm spices of Butcher and Singer’s astonishingly good Carrot Cake. The seasoning kept the sweet cream cheese icing from becoming too cloying, while the multiple cake layers made for an exquisite final course. We also treated ourselves to the Chocolate Cake, a great choice for chocolate lovers who relish the tangy semi-sweet flavor of this moist classic. Never overpowering but definitely all encompassing, this dish was an unabashedly creamy confection for anyone hungry enough to dig in. The Chocolate Cake made a great partner for the requisite espresso we enjoyed while we nearly cleaned our plates.
Butcher and Singer stands alone as Philadelphia’s only steakhouse equally preoccupied with providing the finest customer service and serving unparalleled meals. To say Stephen Starr has “done it again,” would do a disservice to this restaurant’s distinctive character and its ability to transport diners, if for just a few hours, to another era. Each night, entering the restaurant’s threshold is like stepping back in time to an age when men wore fedoras and dinner was an event.
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