[Restaurant Review
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A Colorful Splash of Mexican-American Culture
By EV
Everything about El Vez is designed to attract attention. From its bustling locale to its brightly colored exterior to its electric decor, even if you blink, you still won’t be able to miss this local treasure. Would you expect anything less from a restaurant named after the famous Mexican Elvis impersonator?
Hugely successful restaurateur Stephen Starr, famous for helping revolutionize Philadelphia’s dining scene, opened El Vez in November 2003, setting the stage for a whole new era in Mexican cuisine. Unlike his other local restaurants, El Vez steers clear of pomp and circumstance – partly achieved by the restaurant’s location – but still manages to dazzle its customers.
Often a forgotten section of the city, 13th Street has built a name for itself as a trendy hotspot for the city’s young professionals. Known as the “Gayborhood” to locals, 13th Street is no longer a black hole between Rittenhouse and Old City. It instead has become a bustling avenue of chic boutiques and hip coffeehouses.
Once you enter El Vez through the glass doors off 13th Street, your senses are overwhelmed by color and noise. Your eyes will immediately lock on the authentic Chicano low-rider bicycle rotating from above the bar, an area packed with patrons of all ages perched on Charo-faced stools. Brightly colored mosaics and festive murals are splashed on every wall, and laughter and music fills every space of El Vez’s over-the-top interior.
Upon entering the restaurant, your first task is to decide on your seating. The lively bar is a perfect spot to grab a few appetizers and tequila-rich cocktails, but you can usually count on a thick crowd and limited stools. When the weather warms up, you can snag a few tables outside, but the narrow sidewalks ensure that you’ll be getting up close and personal with the Philly locals. If you prefer to people watch without the in-your-face action, a line of tables is nestled against the windows that run along the street. And for the most intimate and posh of the seating choices, a series of high-backed leather booths are tucked away deeper into the restaurant – ideal for smaller parties and first dates.
Once you settle into your destination, choosing your meal will be no easy task. El Vez’s imaginative menu provides endless opportunities to indulge in edible delights born of both creativity and authenticity. Chef Darron Carbone has taken classic Mexican favorites to the next level by experimenting with unconventional ingredients and flavors.
The soups and salads are both safe bets when diving into the restaurant’s cuisine, with the roasted corn soup and Mexican chopped salad with cumin-lime vinaigrette bringing new meaning to a classic combination. But before you even think about your entrée, a far more important dish awaits you.
The absolute highlight of El Vez is their impressive rendition of the Mexican staple – guacamole. The delectable, buttery dip is created before your eyes tableside, catered to your every tasty wish. Prefer a little more citrus? Extra lime can be added without hesitation. Like it mouthwateringly spicy? A few jalapeños will add that little something extra. Creamy, fresh and delicious, El Vez’s esteemed guacamole will prime your taste buds for your meal as soon as it hits your table.
While you wait for your entrée, make sure to sip on the restaurant’s refreshing selection of margaritas and sangrias. Whether it is Patron, Jose Cuerva, or Sauza, El Vez provides its patrons with a wealth of unique Mexican cocktails made with only the best tequila. Flavored margaritas are the favored choice, and the pomegranate version is a perfect balance with its fruity flavor and smoky tequila undertones. If tequila isn’t your bag, the sangria is milder in alcohol content and sweeter in taste, boasting a generous portion of fresh fruit in every glass.
What would true Mexican food be without beloved tacos and enchiladas? Darron Carbone’ gets creative with these traditional dishes, experimenting with a variety of ingredients and flavors. The crab enchiladas with sweet corn, poblanos and Monterey jack cheese are rich and satisfying with every bite. Never stingy with the crabmeat, the mild combination of flavors is a must-try for any palate.
The classic red chile and chicken enchiladas are have a little more bite with their crema fresca (fresh cream) and sliced radishes, and the crispy mahi-mahi tacos are a great fish option for seafood lovers. If you’re having trouble deciding between the tacos, a tasting platter lets you try the black bass, beef, chicken, and mahi all on one plate.
Once your entrée makes its debut, you’ll find it hard to believe more edible goodness can continue, but El Vez has a knack for never disappointing. Darron Carbone’ entrée creations are rustic and down-home but still worthy of a gasp when they hit the table.
The carne asada is always perfectly cooked and will satisfy any red meat craving. The beautiful steak is highlighted with roasted purple potato and watercress salad, clearly establishing itself as one of the restaurant’s favorites. The carnitas de lechon, a juicy pork dish enhanced by spicy black beans and a tasty tomatillo sauce, is also sure to please.
For poultry lovers, the turkey mole with white rice, refried beans and tomato-avocado salsa and the annatto chicken with poblano cornbread, ancho chile chicken relleno and salsa verde make fine comfort dishes, but the seafood entrees steal the spotlight.
Diver scallops are plump and tender in a mouthwatering coconut-horchata sauce and basil pipian, The red snapper, tuna and salmon dishes are also safe bets simply because of their freshness and loyalty to the culture, but the mojo grilled shrimp with a crab and zucchini yuca cake and cascabel pineapple mole is a succulent indulgence with a perfect balance of earthy and rich flavors.
Vegetarians won’t be left out in the culinary cold either – the huarache de vegetal is a regal helping of warm black bean corn cakes filled with grilled nopales, chayote and poblano with salsa roja and charred-tomatillo sauce. You won’t even miss the meat after diving into this farm-fresh feast.
No matter how full you are after your to-die-for entrees, El Vez’s desserts are not to be missed. If you can’t bring yourself to eat another bite, the Mexican coffee is the perfect after-dinner drink. A rich, creamy mocha is topped with Kahlua foam and garnished with a crispy espresso filled wafer. The flourless chocolate cake, an increasingly popular sweet treat in restaurants, is perfectly accented with peanut butter custard, caramelized bananas and sugary praline ice cream.
A tradition flan is available, as well as a Mexican twist on a banana spilt (plantain split, anyone?), but the dolce de leche sopapillas are the must-try dessert dish. Pastry puffs are filled with caramel and drizzled with caramel sauce, but the mango ice cream provides enough fruity flavor to turn this plate from too sweet to too delicious for words.
While the prices don’t reflect El Vez’s unpretentious and welcoming environment, the food is well worth the price, and the atmosphere is right on the money. Casual to dressy attire is appropriate, the service is fun and personable, and the bartenders are always eager to explain the differences in the variety of tequila available. An old photo booth in the back of the restaurant is a nice touch and begs for you to capture your evening on camera. After all, you’ll never forget your first meal at El Vez – simply because it’s delicious from start to finish.
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