[Restaurant Review
Jones: Groovy Comfort Food
By Sandra Kear
Jones on 700 Chestnut Street, a restaurant just four years young, offers diners a unique step back in time. What other eatery blends the down-home cooking of the Midwest 1950s with the fun and flashy décor of the 1970s Brady Bunch era?
As I walked into Jones, I couldn’t miss the enormous retro 1950’s beach scene that served as a back-drop to the bar. A brown-haired bartender immediately smiled and came to my service. Everyone seemed so happy and vibrant as I watched laughing customers, in a variety of age groups, sitting in their tweed, avocado-colored booths, amid cherry-stained wood and stacked, stone brick walls. Modern lighting fixtures twinkled from above, and a nightlight shimmered from every table. Others dining spaces housed rust-colored, pleather swivel chairs tucked into teal table-tops, with a crackling see-through fireplace nearby. Outdoor dining was also available, and a mezzanine could seat eighteen guests comfortably for private parties.
I scanned the wine list: red wines included a Bridlewood Syrah, Estancia Pinot Noir, and Santa Julia Malbec; whites included a La Francesca Pinot Grigio and an M Picard Vouvray. The bartender offered me a taste of both a Riesling and a Gewurztraminer, but I settled on the Durbanville Sauvignon Blanc, which was aromatic, dry, and refreshing.
Cocktail names on the menu made me want to put flowers in my hair and walk barefoot in the sand: Proud Mary, Hound Dog, A Happy, Bug Juice, Cloud Nine. When my partner arrived, he wanted a tasty soft drink and was offered a Jones soda pop in three fun-filled flavors: Crushed Melon, Berry Lemonade, and Cream Soda. He opted for the Cream Soda, which our bartender retrieved from the icebox, popped, and poured.
My partner and I took a sneak peak at the dinner menu while sitting at the teal-colored bar. Appetizers included such items as Cheese Pierogies, Baked Macaroni and Cheese, and Potato Pancakes. There was a Cobb Salad and a Crispy Calamari Salad. Some of the entrees included Rigatoni, Thanksgiving Dinner, Meatloaf, and a Vegetarian Shepherd’s Pie. But the menu also contained some sandwiches and smaller fare such as Chicken Noodle Soup, Tomato Soup with grilled cheese, a Beef Brisket Sandwich, and a Tuna Melt on rye. Many of these were child-friendly items, even though a children’s menu is not offered.
The bartender could see we were getting hungry and asked if we would like to be seated, and with an affirmative, she nodded to the perky hostess, who greeted us with that same golly gee smile. She beckoned for us to follow her to our table. She spoke about how swell the food was on the way to the table, and once we sat down, handed us our menus and wished us a pleasant meal.
After less than a minute, our waitress, Imane, magically appeared, wearing a semi-short skirt, knee socks, and a warm Florence Henderson smile. After introducing herself and providing a detailed explanation of the specials, Imane took our order. She then thanked us and mentioned that she would, "get those appetizers right out to us." Only two minutes later, we were brought a basket with two warm, square semolina dinner rolls and a small ramekin of whipped butter. Shortly after, our appetizers appeared.
I ordered the Chicken and Rock Shrimp Dumplings. These were served with side of sweet soy and chili oil. Four succulent, half-dollar-sized dumplings, garnished with cilantro and chive shavings awaited my hungry palate. These warm, doughy delicacies, dipped in the accompanying sauce, tasted sweet and buttery in my mouth. The dumplings were soft to the bite and the meat inside was crumpled and fresh. The sprinkle of fresh cilantro added a crunchy tanginess to the dish.
While I chose Asian comfort food, my partner chose his comfort food Mexican style, ordering the Seared Tuna Tacos. Two hard tacos were filled with a chunky avocado relish; citrusy cilantro; spicy, rare sashimi-grade tuna; and a sprinkling of shredded cheese. The dish was a creative alternative to sushi, and a successful combination of both warm and cool fresh ingredients.
Less than five minutes after we finished our appetizers, another server returned with our meals. He seemed to know instinctively that I had ordered the Gumbo and my partner the fish because he placed the meals correctly without even asking.
My partner savored a bite of the large portion of the crunchy Pistachio Crusted Tilapia put before him. The fish was served in a shallow pool of warm and tangy, but slightly sweet honey-orange-butter sauce, which added a zest to the mild fish flavor. Beside the fish was a heavily cooked spinach mix seasoned with garlic, as well as sticky white rice that soaked up the essence of the sauce.
My Cajun-style Shrimp Gumbo came without garnish in a large white bowl. Six, large, freshly seared shrimp circled this dish, which contained a mixture of okra, corn, peppers, and celery in a brown, gooey gumbo sauce, peppered with small slices of spicy, reddish andouille sausage. The spice was a bit overpowering, but Imane kept my water glass full. The bowl contained a sufficient serving, which I finished without feeling overwhelmingly full.
During our meal, the manager, Josh Sapienza, surveyed the customers and tables, taking in the scene. He gave us the skinny on dessert, mentioning that the pastry chef was “out of this world.” He also conveyed the kitchen’s philosophy, explaining that Chef Steven Petrecca—along with sous chefs Andrew Wagner, Rick Taraborelli, and Alberto Convento—prepare almost every item from scratch each day, “from every sauce, cookie, and gourmet sorbet and ice cream to our turkey burgers and crabcakes.” Sapienza assured us, “our focus is really on the highest quality, fresh ingredients prepared in a familiar and approachable way and served by the most hospitable group of emotionally co-dependant hipsters.”
Petrecca, who attended the New York Restaurant School, brings with him experience gained at some of New York City's most highly acclaimed restaurants, including The Vinegar Factory and Jerry's in SoHo.
According to Sapienza, the Jones’s site was formerly a gift & card shop. The restaurant was part of a bold move to revitalize a struggling neighborhood in its location between Rittenhouse Square/Mid Town and Old City/Society Hill. “We have since seen quite a commitment from our neighbors and other restaurateurs,” Sapienza says, “ Jones, itself, was developed by Stephen Starr, whose other unique Philly eateries include Buddakan, Continental Midtown, Continental Old City, Pod, and Morimoto.
When my partner and I finished dinner, Imane cleared our plates, cleaned the crumbs from the table, and asked if we were interested in dessert. We perused the dessert menu, considering such items as the Duncan Hines Chocolate Layer Cake served with a cold glass of milk, the Berry Big Waffle Sundae which included a fresh-baked waffle, mixed berries and vanilla ice cream, or the Peanut Butter Pie with caramelized banana and whipped cream. But when Imane told us of the Chocolate Mambo “Tuxedo” dessert, how could we refuse?
The Chocolate Mambo Tuxedo contained a fresh sweet strawberry atop a fluffy mound of white vanilla mouse, which sat upon a thin slice of chocolate cake base. The whole concoction came covered by a thin, hard milk-chocolate shell with vanilla chocolate stripes. A sweet strawberry glaze decorated the white plate below. On the side sat a large, clever chocolate-covered strawberry decorated to resemble a tuxedo.
The dessert waxed unique like the theme, furnishings, and the overall feel of Jones. If you have a chance to take a step back in time, book on over Jones at 700 Chestnut Street. Jones’s location, décor, and the upbeat, groovy staff, along with the individualized comfort-food menu make the restaurant a pleasant dining trip back in time for couples and families, as well as for those trendy single hipsters.
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